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晨霧未散，黔貴大地的街巷深處已傳來石臼捶打米漿的悶響。貴州人的年味，從一捧秈米蛻變成銀絲般的酸粉開始。在這片“以酸代鹽”的土地上，牛肉粉的滾燙鮮香是打開新春的鑰匙，亦是丈量鄉(xiāng)愁的標(biāo)尺。

Before the morning fog lifts, the sound of stone mortars pounding rice flour echoes through the streets of Guizhou. The taste of Guizhou’s New Year begins with a handful of rice, transformed into delicate sour noodles. In this land, beef noodles are the key to welcoming the new year and a measure of nostalgia.

貴州牛肉粉，常輔以酸菜、糊辣椒、酸蘿卜一同食用。（圖/資料圖）

在貴州年俗圖譜里，牛肉粉是永不褪色的圖騰。據(jù)《貴陽府志》記載，明朝戍邊將士將北方拉面技法與當(dāng)?shù)氐咀魑拿鹘蝗?，催生出“酸粉”這種獨特形態(tài)。每逢歲末，家家戶戶都要在院中架起三口鐵鍋：一鍋牛骨湯煨足晝夜，一壇紅酸湯釀透春秋，一甑現(xiàn)蒸米線落雪成絲。苗家的酸、侗家的辣、漢家的醇，都在氤氳熱氣中達(dá)成味蕾的完美融合。

In Guizhou’s New Year customs, beef noodles are a timeless symbol. According to the Guiyang Prefecture Gazetteer, during the Ming Dynasty, border soldiers combined Northern hand-pulled noodle techniques with the local rice farming culture, giving birth to the unique "sour noodles." 

貴州牛肉粉經(jīng)典“全家福”。（圖/資料圖）

黔人過年講究“先暖脾胃再暖人心”。乙巳蛇年至，各家湯鍋晝夜不熄。牛筒骨在砂鍋里翻騰三日，析出凝脂般的膠質(zhì)；街坊鄰居一邊提著帶筋膜的“燈碗肉”，一邊笑著說：“筋頭巴腦熬湯才掛得住年味”。

As the new year begins, the cooking never stops. Beef bones simmer for three days in a clay pot; neighbors carry the "lamp bowl meat" with tendon still attached, laughing as they say, "Only with the tendon can the soup carry the taste of the year."

文火慢煨十二個時辰，一鍋濃縮了山川精華的老湯，澆淋在雪白細(xì)滑的米粉上，撒一把碧綠的“年蔥”，化作了游子歸鄉(xiāng)的第一口熱乎。正如貴陽民謠所唱：“千山萬水不怕遠(yuǎn)，就為這碗家鄉(xiāng)鮮。”

Slowly simmered for twelve hours, the rich broth is poured over the soft, smooth rice noodles, topped with a handful of fresh green onions. As a Guiyang folk song says, "No matter the mountains or rivers, it's worth the journey, just for this bowl of hometown freshness."

經(jīng)過文火慢燉的筋頭巴腦牛肉。（圖/資料圖）

正月里，家家戶戶端出秘制的“守歲粉”：米粉盤成如意結(jié)，鋪滿八片透光的鹵牛肉，碗底埋著兩顆茶葉蛋——這是黔中人家不言的祝福。孩子們捧著比臉大的粗瓷碗，看琥珀色湯頭漫過胭脂蘿卜片?；腥婚g，那些浮沉的香蔥碎，仿佛拼出了父輩們永不褪色的春節(jié)記憶。

In the first month of the year, every household serves their secret "New Year’s noodles". Children hold largeceramic bowls, watching the amber-colored broth overflow onto the rosy radish slices. In that moment, the scattered green onions seem to form the memories of the Spring Festival that never fade, passed down from their ancestors.

用牛骨熬煮時光，以米粉回味鄉(xiāng)愁。一碗滾燙的牛肉粉，盤踞在貴州人的胃囊深處，成為三百六十五天中最滾燙的那頁日歷。

Stewing beef bones to cook time, and savoring nostalgia in a bowl of rice noodles. A steaming bowl of beef noodles always occupies a special place in the hearts of Guizhou’s people, marking the hottest day in a year’s worth of calendars.

貴州日報天眼新聞記者 李鈺

編輯 朱紫蒨

二審 龐博 陳大煒

三審 許邵庭